Vegeburgers allowed, but plant-based dairy under cloud

Great news!  In October the European Parliament rejected the meat industry’s attempt to ban the use of words like ‘sausage’  or ‘burger’ to describe plant-based sausages and burgers.  But it was a darned close-run thing - just 55% of MEPs voted against insanity. Not really surprising as the EU Parliament has form when it comes to these things. 

But before you congratulate them on their common sense: they also voted to ban any reference to dairy products unless they come from cows, sheep, goats or Italian water buffalo.  So no soy milk, no almond milk, no sunflower cheese.  What is the EU going to do about coconut milk? Or coconut cream?  Or peanut butter?  Should we just give the EU Parliament control over our dictionaries.  These words are part of the English language.  No doubt ‘Milk of Magnesia’ is heading for the chop, too. 

In 1981 my brother Gregory created the world’s first vegeburger.  We got the trademark as the word had not previously appeared in print.  So it was Vegeburger™.  The problem with that was the word went generic.  Hoover had the same problem when ‘hoovering the carpet’ became a verb for sucking out dust.  A descriptor may be generic but that won’t stop the valiant guardians of the consumer, sorry, producers in Brussels. 

If someone buys coconut milk it’s frightfully confusing for those poor souls who are unaware that coconuts don’t have udders bursting with milk and don’t say ‘moo.’.  As for peanut butter, it’s called ‘burro di arachidi’ (peanut butter) in Italian, ‘mantequilla de mani’ (peanut butter) in Spanish, ‘beurre d’arachide’ (peanut butter) in French and ‘Erdnussbutter’ (peanut butter) in German.  I think maybe that particular train may have left the station but don’t be surprised if the EU vote initiates a process of suppression of the way people actually speak and starts to rewrite dictionaries. 

This Whac-a-Mole game with vegans and vegetarians and coconut milk and peanut butter lovers still has a long way to run. 

Meanwhile the EU Green Deal takes shape and the EU Parliament is quite happy to ignore the scandalous waste of food and land it represents.  There are 22 million hectares of EU farmland devoted to growing rapeseed for biodiesel.  That’s enough land to feed 30 million people a year.  10 million people die of hunger globally every year, but the EU Renewable Transport Fuels Obligation mandates that we feed cars and trucks and aeroplanes, which take priority over starving human beings.  And that’s before you count the 2 million hectares of palm oil that ends up as biodiesel or power station fuel in Europe.  If we had carbon pricing instead of EU laws that require the burning of food there would be a lot more happy orangutans in Indonesia.  It always vexes me that orangutan lovers are more concerned about a tiny amount of non-hydrogenated palm oil in a jar of peanut butter (sorry, ‘peanut-based bread surfacing material’) than they are about the fact that their hybrid car is running on a palm oil/diesel blend.

Then there are those poor French farmers who are still producing relatively ropey wine that nobody particularly cares to drink. Wines from England, New Zealand and other areas are organic and more palatable. Understandably the French wine growers are very pro biofuels. You take the wine, turn it into brandy but instead of leaving it in burnt oak barrels to develop some flavour you just mix it with petrol at 15%. The E85 petrol blend of grape wine ethanol and petrol is subsidised to make it a lot cheaper than regular petrol and that helps the French to quietly burn (with subsidies) all that wine that nobody wants to drink.  That wine ethanol also makes good hand sanitiser - coronavirus saves the day!

While the EU continues to squabble about what is a burger or milk or butter or a sausage, Britain is launching the Environmental Land Management (ELM) scheme.   Britain will lead the world in having a farming policy that will deliver ‘public money for public goods.’  So much more grown up than a farm policy that just makes global warming worse while trying to change the language people use to describe their food. 

Gregory Sams, my brother

50 years ago I opened a little restaurant and macrobiotic study centre in Notting Hill.  People filled in their own bills, based on what they ate and paid on an honour system.  Then Graham Bond brought his Hammond organ down for a party one evening and played until 2 a.m.  The neighbourhood erupted in rage and I was chucked out.  I found ideal new premises: two big rooms in a hotel basement between Paddington and Notting Hill. I got it ready to open.  Then a complication about my right to stay in the U.K led me to have to leave the country.  That's when my brother Gregory, who had been a wheelchair user since an accident 8 months earlier at University of California Berkeley, rose to the occasion.  He completed the restaurant project, supported by our mother Margaret and my girl friend Ann. Seed Restaurant opened in early 1968.   It was an instant success, with great macrobiotic food and a loyal customer base that included John and Yoko, Terence Stamp and everyone else who understood that organic wholesome food was the way  of the future.  Gregory published a magazine called 'Harmony' that neatly set out the basics of the macrobiotic philosophy.   He then opened the first ever natural foods store called Ceres Grain Shop.  It had all the grains, beans, seeds and organic vegetables. There were no products containing sugar, honey, refined cereals and no supplements.   Ceres was the model for the new natural food stores, distinctly different from health food shops. 

I rejoined him in 1969 and we went on to create Harmony Foods, with an offering of hitherto unknown foods like organic brown rice, miso, tamari, aduki beans, seaweeds and (because of our customer base) patchouli oil.  Ceres Grain Shop moved to Portobello Road where the manager in 1971 was Pamela Donaldson. Pam represented us in setting up the first Glastonbury Fayre.  She became ill so I took over running the shop, working with Gregory at Harmony Foods.  We did the food at that legendary Glastonbury.  In 1972 the premises next door became available and we opened Ceres Bakery, pioneering sourdough and wholemeal sugar-free baking. There was little or no competition in those days. Most people were still wondering how long this natural organic food fad would last.

Gregory liaised with committed organic farmers who grew cereals and bought their wheat, oats, rye and barley, milled it at Harmony Foods and supplied it to Ceres bakery.  He organised flaking of cereals that led to British cereal flakes being the mainstay of German organic mueslis.  He sat on the Soil Association committee that drafted the first organic standards: 2 pages, would you believe?  When the Soil Association expressed a lack of interest in 'trade' he and David Stickland set up Organic Farmers and Growers to certify and market homegrown organic cereals.  Harmony Foods went from strength to strength and we moved to a huge warehouse/factory in Willesden. We had a big cash 'n' carry area and manufactured our Whole Earth branded jams, peanut butter, packed cereals and macrobiotic specialties.   We grew too fast and in 1982 found ourselves overstocked and with cash flow problems.  Gregory had just created the world's first 'Vegeburger' and trademarked it because nobody had used the word before. Yes, true. His Realeat food company marketed the VegeBurger. and I concentrated on downsizing Harmony Foods and focussing on peanut butter and jam.   He instigated the Gallup polls that highlighted the trend to vegetarianism.  The Vegeburger was a massive success, Gregory cashed out and retired.  For a few months.  Then in 1989 he created the world's first fractal art shop and created stunning posters based on the Mandelbrot set and Chaos Theory.  Since then he has written two ground-breaking books:  The State is out of Date and Sun of God, two books that will change your perspective on everything. 

I am honoured to have known this remarkable guy for 68 years and to acknowledge his seminal contribution over 50 years to this wonderful world of natural and organic food we take for granted nowadays.

Achievement Award

Recently I was chosen to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Natural and Organic Awards.  It was a huge privilege and for that I am grateful. 

John Donne’s poem ‘No Man is an Island’ springs to mind.  I have never been a solo pilot. My achievements were the result of the hard work, effort,   commitment and shared vision of all the people that I have worked with over the years.  Foremost among these is my brother Gregory, who moved on from the natural foods industry in the late 1980s but whose influence and impact was equal to my own. 

Our little business started in 1966 with my importing and marketing books about macrobiotics and supplying macrobiotic food at the UFO Club, where the Pink Floyd, Soft Machine and Arthur Brown played to dancing hippies every Friday night.  That created the core customer base of what was originally called Yin Yang Ltd.  Gregory had an accident at university in Berkeley California and came back to the UK on a stretcher at the beginning of 1967.  A month later I had opened a small restaurant/study centre that was the haunt of the likes of Yoko Ono and Graham Bond.  The restaurant closed and I found larger premises in Westbourne Grove.  However as an American with no permission to work in the UK I had problems that necessitated my return to the USA in late 1967.  During this time Gregory rose heroically to the challenge and opened the planned restaurant, called “Seed” - which became an instant success.  John Lennon was a personal friend of his and the alternative society regarded Seed as its own.  Our mother Margaret oversaw the food preparation, bringing her Midwestern values of hard work and competence to the scene. By 1969 I was back in the UK with full residential rights and the freedom to work .  Gregory had by then opened Ceres Grain Shop in All Saints Road, the first natural food store, (as opposed to health shop – there was a much bigger difference in those days).

In 1970 we created Harmony Foods.  Gregory learned graphic design and created labels that were clean, informative and distinctive.  They set the pattern for the natural foods design style of the 1970s.  Gregory also sat on the committee that drafted the first organic food standards at the Soil Association – 2 pages long, it seemed enough at the time.

Harmony Foods took brown rice and lentils and macrobiotic specialities from the pioneer natural food stores to the health food shop mainstream.  Gregory hooked up with organic growers all over the country in order to get UK-produced organic food.  He bought most of Britain’s organic grain and milled flour at Harmony Foods that I would bake into bread at Ceres Bakery and then distribute around London.  This led to making flakes and Harmony cereal flakes went in truckloads to Germany, where organic production was still finding its feet.  Harmony peanut butter became a leading national brand after we were seen on the 6 pm BBC news packing it into jars at the first Mind and Body exhibition, a huge show at Olympia

By the late 1970s Harmony Foods had to specialise.  We focussed on peanut butter, jam and ginseng, hiving off the other products.  But the business was too small for us both.  But by then Gregory had created the Vegeburger’  

The Realeat Vegeburger created a whole new category of foods – vegetarian equivalents of dishes normally seen in a meat format.  It was a runaway success. Gregory’s annual Realeat Gallup poll measured the growth in vegetarianism and brought it in from the margins to be a recognised category in the grocery market.  Catering packs of Vegeburger mix and vegetarian ready meals enabled pubs and restaurants to be ready and willing when a veggie customer turned up. 

Gregory sold the Vegeburger to British Arkady in the late 1980s and went on to carve out a career as a fractal artist and is now in demand as a speaker, drawing on his thought provoking books Uncommon Sense and Sun of God.   He continues to amaze and inspire – our partnership helped lay the foundations of the organic and natural movement and I will always be grateful for the important part he played.